My only firm obligation for this day was to get to a schooner at Bar Harbor, which was a relief because I was still catching up on rest and did not have to rise early and wanted to enjoy Acadia National Park on my own terms first. I started slow, picking up a muffin at the local shop before heading into Mt. Desert (pronounced like the sweet ending to a meal) for the day. Mt. Desert is the name for the peninsula that houses Bar Harbor and the bulk of Acadia. So I dutifully bought my week-long parking pass for the park and headed straight up Cadillac Mountain, stopping here and there for photos and shopping along the way. It was a clear day to share with tourists from all over the world.
By the time I came off Cadillac Mountain, it was time to begin the endless search for parking in Bar Harbor. I circled the town more than once before finding a spot and got lucky when I did because it still had money on the meter. I went first for lunch nearby and sat in the Village Square eating it and getting friendly with various pups who wandered by.
I had been advised to max out the meter before getting on the schooner, so I went back and paid for four hours before heading to the Margaret Todd and four hours on Frenchman’s Bay.
I had arranged this trip through the National Park Service, and it came with a Park Ranger who did his best to give us the history and note the various animals during the voyage. The crew was very good, and it was great to watch them manage this big sailing ship. The water is quite cool, perhaps in the 50’s that day, which was quite a drop from the shore, where it was in the 80’s. I was glad I carried a jacket with me for the voyage. The schooner trip lasted about two hours and was full, but not crowded. I chatted with my fellow travelers, took the appropriate photos, and enjoyed being sailed around on a glorious day.
I disembarked with nearly two hours left on my parking meter, so I decided to take in Bar Harbor. I indulged in peach ice cream and wandered the town, buying cards and blueberry tea, while checking out the range of souvenirs available to tourists.
Once my meter was done, I was ready to head back into the National Park, and I followed the roads along its perimeter, taking in a variety of sites. I took in the visitor center before it closed, then headed to Sand Beach. I shed my shoes and walked along the shore, letting the waves wash over my feet and digging my feet in the sand. It was pleasant, but after a few washes, the water seemed painfully cold.
I continued along the perimeter, making my way to Seal Harbor and then out into Mt. Desert. I stopped for a sandwich at Northeast Harbor and had some time before the sunset, so I drove north along Sergeant Drive and then south again circling Somes Sound. On the map, it looks far, but the the distances were not great and I wanted to catch sunset at Bass Harbor. I headed through Southwest Harbor on toward but I overshot the mark and wound up a bit lost. By the time I arrived at the entrance to Bass Harbor lighthouse, there was a park ranger stopping cars from entering the property–which is operated by the Coast Guard–because there was no more parking available at the head light. While he told me I could wait for only a minute or so before I had to turn back, a car left so I headed in. I joined a small, and somewhat odd, collection of people at the head light to watch the night fall. It was spectacular, worth the effort to get there.
I headed back north out of Mt. Desert and decided to make a final stop before settling in for the night. Google had informed me about Momo’s, a 24 hour cheesecake shop nearby that operates on an honor system. You can drive up to the garage and pick up your cheesecake with cash. I was not sure I would get there another day, so I found it in the dark and indulged in some peanut butter cheesecake before heading back to my hotel and bed. It was a full day on Mt. Desert; it deserved two indulgences.
